Thursday 23 February 2023

Yesterday when we left Lake Tepako it was 6 degrees. The day prior at Mt Cook it was 30 degrees. Today in Christchurch it’s 8 degrees and very very wet. We had planned to drive to Akaroa today but the weather said no. The gondola was a no no too, not that we would have done it in this weather

So we took the tourist tram instead and did a circuit of the city. This city has been rebuilt in the past 12 years. It was the anniversary of the earthquake yesterday. It was the stone buildings which suffered the most, since stone doesn’t give. The Christchurch Art Gallery, which is steel and glass, was built prior to 2011 and built to withstand earthquakes. And withstand it did. Only one glass pane cracked. The tram driver, and tour commentator (upon whom one can always rely…) told us that the building was built over a void and had a rubber shock absorber right around it, allowing the building to move 600cm in any direction. I wonder if she meant 60cm? Anyway, it’s a wonderful testament to design and construction that it survived so soundly when all around it crumbled.

We spent some time in the beautiful Gallery, which is free entry, but they charge like wounded bulls for the piano outside

The weather cleared a little so tossed the tram aside and wandered on foot. This photo is for you Libby, and Prue

Does she look younger than Brenda?

Construction work everywhere, still, and all the stone buildings are taking longer to rebuild because of a shortage of stone masons. Lots of props on buildings, until those pesky masons work harder.

Good progress being made on the Cathedral

Christchurch is prettier than ever I think. It’s a long time since I was here but the rebuilding has done it justice. And there are wonderful murals all over the place.

The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed that Christchurch is celebrating world pride too

Some are even russian to get their message across

We find a funny little place to eat lunch and browse the drinks menu. Language please….

The rain becomes increasingly heavy. Under other circumstances, my partner would have immediately stepped into her ‘shoptillidrop’ mode, but mercifully we only have hand luggage (did I mention that?) and so she’s hamstrung. Back to the hotel to dry off.

We have become aware that the cyclone and earthquake on the North Island have impacted on the ferries between Picton and Wellington. They are either not running or are rescheduling to a major extent. Plus the swells are 3 – 4 metres. Now I like a couple of swells as much as the next person, but not that much thanks. We were booked on the ferry on Tuesday next, but have just cancelled (refunded) and purchased tickets to fly from Christchurch to Wellington. We’ll keep our plan to drive up to Picton and check out the Marlborough region, but we’ll drive the 4 1/2 hrs back to Christchurch on Tuesday for our flight. Less sea sickness that way. This change doesn’t affect our itinerary at all, just the means of travel.

By 6pm the sun is shining. We venture out, without raincoats and Vera hats, and pass the theatre where I have played previously (well, not me really but I’ve swept the stage there, amongst other things). It was badly damaged in the quake but repairs are now complete

We walk to the charming New Regent Street, built in the 1930s. Each side is a mirror image.

We find a lovely place for dinner and enjoy our meal and the accompanying wine, and chatting to all sorts of people. I have become my mother. She would strike up a conversation with anyone and now I find myself doing it. But that’s how we learn things, like the ferry disasters. One couple is from Napier, which is on the east coast of the North Island and they had to wade through tomatoes and apples for days. Whilst enjoying dinner, the rain came down again and the temperature dropped dramatically. One of our new found friends said “well, you are in Christchurch”. A bit like Melbourne maybe, where one often has four seasons in one day.

Walking back from dinner

weaving our way (not wine related) from the protection of one awning to another, I am amused by this

We’re confident it will be fine tomorrow. We’ve still got the Botanic Gardens and the Gondola to do, and then maybe the 90 minute drive to Akaroa.

Friday 24 February

Lots to do today so we jump out of bed early and peek out the curtains. It’s pissing with rain. Back to bed and the crosswords. Eventually the weather clears so we think we’ll do the Gondola first, then the Gardens and then maybe the drive to the coast. But then we change the order

So, we’ll do the Gardens first. It’s about a 40 minute walk, and about 5 minutes in, the rain returns. But like the troopers we are, we forge on. The Christchurch Botanic Gardens cover a massive 21ha and are amongst the largest in the world. Smaller than Central Park but bigger than London’s Hyde Park. It was a lovely walk, the rain variously clearing and returning. Of course, Cherrie is in her element here, and simply can’t help herself

There’s big trees

Historic trees

Lots and lots of ducks on the lawns

and on the River Avon (named after a tributary of the River Clyde in Scotland, not to be confused with the Bard’s river)

This box was of particular interest to Cherrie, but it won’t fit in her hand luggage

And, as always, lessons to be learned. The stairway to heaven is not always clean

The incessant rain puts paid to any Gondola or coastal drive so there’s nothing more to be done except jog to the nearest eatery. Which happens to be Spanish influenced and is a fabulous menu. Wet coats hung up, we indulge in a nice bottle of Central Otago Pinot

The image on the label is Sam’s grandfather, S.E.D Neill, who was a wine merchant in Otago, taken in 1919. Fitting, we think, that this little restaurant, The Curator’s House, sits opposite where Sam went to school. And Jesus apparently. Christ’s College

Cheers Sam. Lovely wine

We take our time over lunch, waiting for the weather to clear enough to walk back to the hotel. It doesn’t, so we just get wet. We leave Christchurch tomorrow and head north to Picton. Let’s hope we don’t need the windscreen wipers.