We’ve turned around and are now heading back south. Tromso is known as the Arctic Capital. A city of 80,000 people, it embraces a mild climate due to the Gulf Stream. I suspect the Tromso-ites are pleased that the wall was not completed or it might have kept the stream out. A mild climate means that it doesn’t snow heavily, but the pavements throughout the city are heated. It’s drizzling today so we don our Vera hats before venturing out.
We resist the temptation
And head instead to the Polar Aquarium
Where we see a lump fish and an angler fish
and heaps of jelly fish
So as not to get hooked, we then visit the Arctic Cathedral
It faces south and there was so much sunlight coming in that the parishioners (Lutheran in the country, the odd catholic – if you’ll pardon the expression) had to wear sunglasses. This troubled the minister as he was not sure if his flock was asleep or awake. So the strained glass window was commissioned and installed some years later. They have to stay awake now. The Cathedral welcomes all kinds
We then drive up Storsteinen Mountain where we board a cable car to the very top and get a sea eagles view of Tromso
Clearly the authorities had heard I was coming
So Cherrie ventured off on her own
Back on board, we ask ourselves why Tromso is known as the Paris of the North. A quick search tells me that travellers in the 19th century were blown away by the city’s women, fashion, food and culture and so dubbed it. Perhaps we were on the wrong bank.
This morning, from sunrise, we spend hours on deck watching the whales swimming along beside us. We have proof of this with photos of the many spouts. The buggers didn’t breach until we had just put our cameras down in order to defrost our hands in our pockets. Someone must have invented phone camera friendly gloves, but we have not yet found them and it is impossible not to regularly place our blue hands in the relative warmth of our pockets, such is the biting, but mightily invigorating, cold wind.
Below, anyone who spots the breach, and spots the tale wins a bagful of salted cod
We find that we are sometime distracted by the passing scenery
We dock at Alta, town of the northern lights, at 2pm. We’re now well and truly in the land of the midday sun. Between 6 December and 6 January there is no sun north of here at all. It is said that on 6 January you can see the sun rise and within 5 minutes turn around and see it set.
Each day at 5.30pm we choose to attend an on board briefing about what we will see tomorrow. Last night we learned about the Sami culture. The Sami’s are the First Nations people of Norway, Finland and Russia and have been here for 7,000 years. That’s 53,000 fewer years than Australia’s First Nations people. The Sami’s are recognised by the three countries they inhabit and even have their own parliament. There are no reports of the Sami claiming anyone’s back garden or even their snowmen.
Alta is famous not only for the northern lights but for their recreational salmon fishing. Two fish per angler.
Many of the towns we have been to in the past couple of days were burnt to the ground by the Nazis in 1944 when the Russians were en route to liberate. All inhabitants were forcibly evacuated to the south by the Germans and then the entire villages succumbed to the burnt earth policy of the Nazi regime. Only a few churches survived. So almost everything we see is a rebuild.
We visited the Northern Lights Cathedral, the design of which is the result of a competition, and it opened in 2013. The interior is raw cement with lights intended to mimic the borealis.
Perhaps not surprisingly Jesus was there and rather wonderfully is looking up, rather than down or to the side
The exterior cladding consists of 25,000 titanium tiles which change colour according to the sun throughout the year.
We visited a museum where there is lots of Sami rock art. Again many thousands of years younger than that found in Australia.
Back on board the Norwegian Kitchen today was salted reindeer, and it was absolutely delicious.
Oh dear, tonight’s menu includes roasted reindeer in the restaurant too, and it is tender, lean and delectable. Can’t wait for Christmas.
To top off another wonderful day the northern lights came to visit again.
We are perhaps not as impressive as you might think, since the sun rises later up here! It’s at approximately 8.41am. However, what is impressive is the reflection of the sunrise on the other side of the fjord
And behind us
Last night we crossed the Arctic Circle. There was an onboard competition as to what time we would cross, the prize being a Hurtigruten flag signed by the Captain (a woman). Clearly we were immensely disappointed not to have to erect a flagpole in the front garden. For those curious amongst our readers, we crossed at 02.05.01
The tradition is to be welcomed into the Arctic Circle by a god of some sort – I think his name was Hdkldjfalkdsfidkdn. He was a short woman with slendewrists and a Longines gold watch, dressed in hessian and long boots,with a rubber face mask and crepe hair beard. Very convincing indeed.
He had a very deep voice, for a soprano. But the god then leads the traditional baptism. This involves each and every passenger being subjected to a ladle of ice cubes down their back – under their clothes – on the outside deck where this morning at 10am it is minus 5 degrees. It is possible that we might have been able to slip away unbaptised, but Motor Neurone NSW had an ice bucket challenge fund raiser a few years ago, which of course we did in memory of Cherrie’s mother who succumbed to the dreadful disease, so this one was for Sue.
We dropped ice blocks all the way to the cabin, where we had to shower (to war up) and to change into dry clothes. Was it really worth crossing the arctic circle for this? Of course it was. The scenery and the light is second to none.
We dock in Lodingen at 2pm. It’s a tiny town with bugger all to see. The ship used to stop here regularly but today is the first stop in some years. Both shopkeepers are thrilled to see us. It’s a bit icy walking around so I sit while Cherrie explores.
Meanwhile, I wracked my brain for the answer to this question, but it just won’t come
Our Norwegian Kitchen experience on deck this afternoon is Salted Cod.
It’s a true local speciality and it’s absolutely revolting
We have been spoilt with wonderful weather, cold, snowy and sunny, together with smooth seas. I can auction my sea sickness meds when I get home.
Every night we sleep in our socks and undies, with our outer clothes pre set for a quick dash up to the deck for the lights. But not tonight Josephine
What will/did you do on your 74th birthday? Cherrie and I boarded the MS Trollfjord in Bergen for an 11 day cruise up to the very most northern point of mainland Norway, and back again to Oslo.
This morning we caught up at breakfast with two newish but very dear friends from the UK who are joining us on the voyage. It was lovely to see Jeremy and Pat again – we had last caught up in Sydney just over a year ago.
It takes all of the morning in queues at the hotel to check out, check in to the ship, board a bus to the port, and receive the safety briefing. But we finally board at 12.30 and knock back a welcome bubbly.
Buffet lunch (utterly delicious) with Pat and Jeremy, a French Chardonnay (utterly delicious) and we have access to our cabin at 2pm. It’s roomier than we feared and there’s even somewhere to put clothes. This’ll do for the next 10 days.
We set sail at 2.30 and explore the ship. It’s a small one, in cruising terms, sleeping 500 passengers but we suspect it’s not full. It certainly doesn’t feel so anyway and is very comfortable. Neither of us has done a cruise before and we think we’re going to enjoy this one very much.
Dinner with Pat and Jeremy and lots of laughs. It’s delightful to travel with a couple of like minds and get to know them better. The on board briefing had filled us in with everything Trollfjord, including the public address system which ceases at 10pm, except in the case of a sighting of the northern lights. This will be announced at any time of night, directly to each cabin. We’re happy about that, because the lights are one of the main reasons we are doing this cruise.
We’re all tired so an early night, to our small but comfortable cabins. At 1.37am we are awoken by an announcement that the aurora borealis can be seen from deck 4. We scramble into clothes, beanies, boots, scarfs, puffas and race up – well one of us races, the other lumbers behind – and there it is.
It can’t be seen well at all through the naked eye, but through the lens of even a phone camera it’s is wonderful. Not bad for night one and so far south.
Back to bed, and a good sleep. I don’t feel any movement from the ship, so the very large bag full of seasickness medications has not yet been touched.
Saturday 21 October
We docked in Molde at 8am
The city of jazz and roses. Although the roses last longer than the jazz. There is an annual week long jazz festival every year and is one of the largest in Europe.
But the roses are still out in force. From horn to thorn perhaps?
We set off at 8.30am on a bus tour of the Atlantic Road. Who’s ever heard of that? But just look at it
It connects the mainland to a series of small islands over 8.2kms. And it’s a spectacular drive…a sort of mini Great Ocean Rd
We made it to the end of the road, unlike the looks of this car
And walked, climbed, a semi circular boardwalk which gave us more spectacular views
The vegetation around the walkway attracted the eye of our photo editor
The views are pretty good from the bus too.
She climbed a hill and took these shots while I remained anchored down
We return to town and wander around.
The sailing boats are out
We saw these and just quacked up
Back at the ship, we attend a Norwegian Kitchen. This is where those of us who care gather around the Head Chef and observe him filleting a whole halibut. It’s so easy. Why have I never done that?
That evening we celebrated my birthday (a day late, but hey….) in the fine dining restaurant on board with Patricia and Jeremy. It was a 7 course degustation meal of local delicacies but cleverly made palatable. Accompanied by 7 white wines. I was itching for a red but manner prevailed.
Sunday 22 October
We docked at Rorvik at 10am. A little town, but everything around here is so pretty. It may be the Aussie eye absorbing Norway perhaps, but we’re thoroughly enjoying everything we see and do.
Time for a comfort break
And then on to here.
You’ll never guess what this beautiful building houses. Go on, have a go.
A concert hall? No. A library? No. An Opera House? No. OK, I’ll spill the beans. It’s the Salmon Museum. Full of old fish. And stuff.
And so the sun sets on another great day
Tonight as we were returning to our cabin after a most enjoyable (and informative) post dinner game of Whist (it’s a card game for those of you who, like us, did not know it) with Pat and Jeremy we collided with another passenger who announced that the northern lights were visible once again. So up to deck 9 and blimey, she was right. This is a pretty cool cruise – in every sense of the word.
I have to try to keep up with the blog because we keep forgetting what we have done. These Nords are keeping us busy, but wow, what a way to busy oneself.
We arrived into Oslo quite late last night and so straight to bed. Breakfast at 6.30am today and off to the Central Railway Station for an 8am train. This is the first leg of a 3 day rail journey to Bergen. The initial 3 hours in the train are pretty dull, as are most journeys out of a big city. Even the cat in the seat in front of us wanted out.
But then we hit the views
More snow than we imagined
5 hours after leaving Oslo we arrive at Myrdal, where we have to disembark onto an ice covered platform. Nerve wracking for me
We struggle to get the bags off the train but succeed with the help of a saviour in Nord form
who then crosses the icy platform with us and heaves the bags into the carriage of the famed Flam Railway
I know I have previously advised that this is the steepest railway in the world, but I can tell you the Scenic in Katoomba trumps it. Although the Flam Railway actually goes somewhere, which is more helpful. The train makes one stop at a waterfall bearing a Norwegian name which goes something like Wadfklkdfjaldofjafljfodk. The trick is to pronounce it phonetically. Cherrie had her photo taken with the Michelin Man
And one without
The truly spectacular views just keep coming
If you prefer not to take the train or boat to Flam, you could chose to drive!
An hour later we arrive in Flam and it is 3pm. We are now in south western Norway and Flam is a charming, if intensely tourist, village. Time for a stroll
To meet the local kids
A very ordinary dinner at the local Inn, chewing on what might well have been a Viking, well done.
Tuesday 17 October The morning in Flam it’s drizzling but we brave the elements (note the nifty gollasher)
and more walking and breathing in the views
The green philosophy is not lost on the Norwegians
We chose not to do the Fjord Safari Adventure
Mostly, but not exclusively, because it looks like it is obligatory to enter Chernobyl
At 3pm we board a boat which takes us through the fjords to Gudvangen, a 2 hour journey. It’s cold outside, the wind chill factor really, but Cherrie is a diehard photo journalist and she braves it all for these photos
This fjord, maybe called Rhkdfasdoifhdklafnl, is on the world heritage list. This is why
Meanwhile it’s a bit slippery out there for me so I sit inside this very comfortable ferry and soak up the views in comfort.
We get into Gudvangen, a tiny landing post amongst this World Heritage listed fjord, where the green roofs are the go
and board a bus for a one hour journey into Voss. Still, the views take our breath away. Will we have any lungs left after 2 weeks of this?
The bus pulls into the Voss Railway Station and the Nazi trained driver opens the doors, unlocks the luggage bins and wanders off. We manage to extract our cases from the bin and look around for a hotel. Is there one in sight? No. Fortunately another Aussie couple, Jeanette and Arthur, are at the same hotel so Arthur goes off on a private expedition to ascertain its whereabouts. He eventually returns triumphant and we heave our cases up hill and down dale, which includes a walk along a train platform, until we get to our hotel.
As you can see, it’s a curious, olde worlde place, called Fleishers and run by the family Fleisher. Since 1865. Most of the original founders have gone but it wouldn’t surprise us to find a few still plotting in one of the many attics around the place.
What do they do with the kids who check in?
This place has so many living/sitting/music/library rooms that it could take a long time to explore, something we prefer not to do for fear of never returning.
Note the score on this piano, one of three we have sighted, is for the tenor sax
Oh, and please feel free to look but for heaven’s sake, don’t sit
We unlock the door to our broom cupboard, squash in the luggage and head straight to the bar, where we find Jeanette and Arthur had the same idea. A drink and dinner with them and squeeze back into the cupboard for the night
Wednesday 18 October
We head to breakfast early-ish in order to stretch our legs, something our room does not cater for. Then a walk around Voss, a city of 15,000 most famous for its bottled water.
If you’re not happy with your bank, it’s always a good idea to have a back up
There’s not a lot that we can walk to, or at least I can walk to, and my friend is a very loyal kinda gal and chooses to stay with me rather than venture out in search of the water bottling factory. We were looking forward to a trip in the famed gondola but it’s on holiday. So we return to Bates Motel and I catch up on this blog and Cherrie takes over her photo editor duties.
At 5pm we are to catch the train to Bergen but shades of France here
The bus arrives at Bergen not long after 7. Check in and Cherrie and I feel the need for a walk, so that’s what we do. Bergen is a beautiful seaside city and we find a fresh fish wharf with a few little eateries. A good serve of Norwegian fish and salad and so to bed.
Thursday 19 October
It’s a beautiful sunny day, the first without rain for several days. How lucky we are. We take a bus tour this morning, which is part of our cruise booking. We learn that Bergen is the second largest city in Norway, after Oslo of course, and has a population of 300,000. It’s very hilly and very pretty
We leave the bus tour when it stops for the participants to take a walk (we are not the types to follow someone holding an umbrella over his head and speaking too softly) and walk ourselves by the harbour. Good gord, Halloween has found it’s way to Bergen
Bergen is the birthplace of Edvard Grieg
and it feels like a cultured city. We had wanted to go to the Grieg Museum, where concerts are held, but it’s closed for winter. We visit the national theatre
And find Henrik Ibsen. He spent a lot of time in Bergen. Curious eyes
But wait, is that a dagger I see before me? Did he have it in for the critics?
We visit the Opus XVI hotel, named for Mr Grieg’s Piano Concerto in A Minor, and the totally underwhelming exhibition in the basement. Not even recorded music playing. Here he is though, through the decades (like you care!)
We continue to walk and marvel at another old and beautiful seaside city
They actually can’t spell very well, these Nords
But at least they have more compassion than many Australians
It’s getting cold, even the tomatoes are feeling it
This below is a shot of the view from our Bergen hotel room, the evening we arrived and the morning we departed
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