Monday 23 October

We catch the sunrise this morning

We are perhaps not as impressive as you might think, since the sun rises later up here! It’s at approximately 8.41am. However, what is impressive is the reflection of the sunrise on the other side of the fjord

And behind us

Last night we crossed the Arctic Circle. There was an onboard competition as to what time we would cross, the prize being a Hurtigruten flag signed by the Captain (a woman). Clearly we were immensely disappointed not to have to erect a flagpole in the front garden. For those curious amongst our readers, we crossed at 02.05.01

The tradition is to be welcomed into the Arctic Circle by a god of some sort – I think his name was Hdkldjfalkdsfidkdn. He was a short woman with slendewrists and a Longines gold watch, dressed in hessian and long boots,with a rubber face mask and crepe hair beard. Very convincing indeed.

He had a very deep voice, for a soprano. But the god then leads the traditional baptism. This involves each and every passenger being subjected to a ladle of ice cubes down their back – under their clothes – on the outside deck where this morning at 10am it is minus 5 degrees. It is possible that we might have been able to slip away unbaptised, but Motor Neurone NSW had an ice bucket challenge fund raiser a few years ago, which of course we did in memory of Cherrie’s mother who succumbed to the dreadful disease, so this one was for Sue.

We dropped ice blocks all the way to the cabin, where we had to shower (to war up) and to change into dry clothes. Was it really worth crossing the arctic circle for this? Of course it was. The scenery and the light is second to none.

We dock in Lodingen at 2pm. It’s a tiny town with bugger all to see. The ship used to stop here regularly but today is the first stop in some years. Both shopkeepers are thrilled to see us. It’s a bit icy walking around so I sit while Cherrie explores.

Meanwhile, I wracked my brain for the answer to this question, but it just won’t come

Our Norwegian Kitchen experience on deck this afternoon is Salted Cod.

It’s a true local speciality and it’s absolutely revolting

We have been spoilt with wonderful weather, cold, snowy and sunny, together with smooth seas. I can auction my sea sickness meds when I get home.

Every night we sleep in our socks and undies, with our outer clothes pre set for a quick dash up to the deck for the lights. But not tonight Josephine