Sunday 5 May 2024

We arrive by plane from Istanbul, into Cappadocia in Central Turkey. Even from the car we witness this surreal landscape

This paragraph is for Bryan Pennington, and any other geology geeks amongst you. “Cappadocia, situated in the Central Anatolia Plateau in Turkey is characterised by widespread volcanic rocks (lavas, Ignimbrites and pyroclastic deposits) alternating with fluvio-lacustrine sediments of Miocene (around 10 million years) to the Quaternary age.” We’ve never seen anything like it. Even though it’s raining, it’s startling.

We arrive at our cave hotel (everything is a cave here) at 5pm and are picked up at 6pm to see the Whirling Dervishes. Cherrie did not really know of them, and amused me when she enquired as to what time the Whizzing Devonshires started. As it turns out, her title is quite apt. A supposedly religious ceremony, this performance we see is more touristy than ever. It’s a quasi-serious show, accompanied by a trio

And performed by four, plus ‘high priest’ who simply walks slowly around the 5m diameter arena, all in black. The god they worship is represented by a 40watt red light globe on a goat skin on the floor. One of the four is clearly a European with classical dance training. His arms are extended wide, rather than in the upward thrust to where the red globe should be – that is on the ceiling.

The audience, of perhaps 300 tourists, seem as impressed us. Out of respect for the ceremony we are asked to remain silent and take no photos, but of course there is a photo opportunity post performance! I sit throughout feeling pretty crappy, and nearly choke trying not to cough, but occasionally I do so, into a handful of tissues. The Devonshires did not react. Mercifully, this tourist trap took only 45 minutes, including photos, and we were back at the hotel by 7.45pm

Monday 6 May 2024

As you know, we had cancelled our scheduled balloon flight at 5.30am today. It was cancelled anyway, because……it’s raining.

Neither of us feel well this morning, so we make a call that perhaps should have been made earlier. We call for a doctor. An English speaking paramedic is at our room within the hour and pronounces that I have pneumonia and Cherrie has an infected throat. He drives us in his car to the private hospital, no sirens blaring. We are seen very quickly by an English speaking Internal specialist in a private room. Back down to the treatment room where blood is taken from us both. Cherrie is hooked up to in IV drip

and I am wheeled to the CT scanner. Within minutes it is reported that my right lung is in a bad way, my bloods speak volumes and I must be admitted for IV antibiotics. And so I am.

When I posted this on FaceBook, Guy Noble commented that I looked like I was wrapped up as take away food. I assure you there is a big beef bun in there.

Kapadokya Hastanesi is a relatively new hospital and I am in a private room, built for two but occupied by just the one foreigner. Now, I have had a little experience with hospitals in my day and I must say that I am getting very good medical care here. But the cultural differences are stark. We are in a very family orientated culture in Turkey and I gather that family look after their own in hospital, in terms of providing personal care, water and some food etc. I am fed, indeed, but it’s not overly appetising.

Poor Cherrie is finally dispatched back to the hotel with antibiotics. The hospital provides a shuttle service and so Cherrie is able to come back and forth, with some advance planning.

It’s Cherrie’s job, despite her being under the weather, to buy fruit, water (bottled water only, tap water not to be drunk throughout the entire country), tissues etc. I have been given no gown and cannot wear my nightie because it is culturally insensitive to do so. Therefore I remain fully clothed the entire time. There is one sheet on the bed plus the doona. The mattress is stuffed with old newspapers and the pillow with cotton wool wrapped marbles. The bathroom is equipped with a sink, toilet, a paper towel dispenser and toilet paper. There is a phone shower, but no recess, and there is no way that one could have a conventional shower without flooding the entire area. Maybe it’s meant for just certain body parts, and that family members bring nice fluffy towels from home. I’m not sure that paper towel will cut the mustard for me. The bed sheet is not changed for my entire stay. But I’m not here for comfort.

Google Translate proves a boon for communication with the nurses.

Tuesday 7 May 2024

The sun is shining bright, and the balloons are back in the air, after a two week hiatus due to weather.

Mercifully, Cherrie is feeling a little better today, so after her pastoral, and shopping delivery, to me she manages some touring

In my honour, she throws a pot

And catches up with some old timers

And so many dogs, known as Public Pets. They belong to no one, are tagged by Council, and fed by anyone who cares. They are placid and seem to be well fed, but there are many who are lacking tags

As always, Cherrie’s eye go to flora

She continues on her tour, and to offer you some relief I shall allow the pictures to paint the words

Today my bloods are better but my lungs are still in trouble. I reiterate that the medical care is excellent and I am on all sorts of drips, pills, nebulisers etc. They are doing everything they can to make me better, and our travel insurers are on the case.

We are extremely fortunate that the one man tour operator we chose to put this tour together for us in based here, in Cappadocia, and he has been fantastic with all the changes that have had to be made.

And, how fortunate we are, to have each other

Wednesday 8 May 2024

Today Cherrie spends with me, sitting beside my bed in her capacity as photo editor of this blog. I am starting to feel better and hopeful of a release tomorrow. They don’t slow the medical care down and are very attentive to those needs. I cough and cough, which is most unfortunate, because a severe cough in a woman my age has uncomfortable consequences. Sandra Clyne, I wish I’d noted.

Cherrie has moved from our cave to a cheaper cave today. We were to have moved on to Ephesus today, but again our tour operator has come good with his incredible flexibility and good humour.

Nothing else to report.

Thursday 9 May 2024

This morning Cherrie declares she is sick of living in caves. I guess that means that our future in Cooper Pedy is in some doubt. I am declared fit enough for discharge, with lots of mobile medications. I am unable to fly for a few days, so Ismail, our tour man, has arranged a car and driver to take us to Bodrum for two days of sun before returning to Istanbul for a day before the long flight home. It is a 10 hour drive and so we break the journey overnight.

I am released at midday, with medical care right up to the exit. Literally my infusion is finished and canula removed immediately prior to leaving the hospital. I am farewelled by a bevy of people I have never seen before in my life, except for the tall dude who is my doctor. And Cherrie of course. Medical tourism at work here

More about the drive in the next blog.

Here we are with Ismail, our amazing tour operator, at midday about to set off on the long drive. Ismail made all the changes for us, so many, so often, and with such good grace. Anyone wanting to tour Turkey, Made in Turkey Tours highly recommended.