Tuesday 17 June 2025

There’s no doubt about the Brits. They decided to set up a military settlement right at the top of the NT to facilitate trade with Asia. This morning we set off in a boat to explore what’s left of it. We pass Gunners Quoin, Low Point, Turtle Rock, Observation Cliff and Record Point on our way to the historic Victoria Settlement. This was the third attempt by the British at a northern settlement, after Fort Dundas on Melville Island and Fort Wellington at Raffles Bay. They both failed within a couple of years due to illness, isolation, the oppressive climate and hostile natives. So, third time lucky they reckoned, and so in 1838 sent a group of British soldiers, along with their families, to establish this new outpost, at Port Essington. The new Queen was a youngster then, just one year into her reign, and so they named it Victoria Settlement. No doubt she was very chuffed.

The establishment of this perfect spot was a huge undertaking. They built a Governor’s residence, a hospital, church, military and married quarters and even a school

They dug for fresh water

They ate oysters, au naturalle, down by the beach

and this is where they came with any new ideas

Just an interesting tit bit….one of the cottages built at Victoria Settlement was for a layman, John Lewis, who traded buffalo. His son was named after the Port and Essington Lewis went on to found BHP.

After all that work, all that infrastructure, it turned out that Victoria Settlement wasn’t ideal after all. Strategically it was well placed, but practically it was not. Disease overtook the colony, scurvy was rife, there was a lack of fresh food, the climate was unbearable, and all worked against the longevity of this place. It was abandoned in 1849, just 11 years after the first sod was turned. I think the Crown gave up any ideas of outposts at that point.

At least the trees are still hanging on for dear life

A trek back to the beach

has us reboarding the boat and chewing on a wrap for lunch whilst we return to Seven Spirit Bay. There to greet us were some merchant bankers

We have this afternoon off to lie by the pebblecreted billabong. I’m hot but can’t get in until there are a few men on standby, which eventually there are.

Post sunset

we are served a curious, almost inedible, meal. For an upmarket resort, the kitchen lets us down. Scurvy is a risk to us too, since we haven’t seen a fresh vegetable or fruit since we got here. I know we only got here yesterday, but give me a break. Give me something green, something that is meant to be green of course, or an apple. Please. Anyway, off to bed….