Jolly Hockey Sticks!

We fly out of New York at 6.30pm on Tuesday. That’s 11.30pm UK time.  We are with British Airways and much as it goes against my grain to praise Alan Joyce, I’m afraid BA just doesn’t measure up to Qantas.  We are served dinner but the cabin lights don’t go out until about 2am.  Suffice to say, not much sleep.  In fact none, even though we chose the no breakfast option.  We land at 6.30am and are at our hotel near Victoria Station by 8.45am, both feeling a bit crossed eyed.  Mercifully the room was available so we shower and change and then hot foot it, via the tube, to Waterloo East Station where we take the train to Sevenoaks to visit one of my mother’s oldest surviving (perhaps the only surviving now) friend who has recently moved  into a home for the older folk. Dear Brenda Austen, of whom I am terribly fond, is still sharp as a tack mentally, and only a little frail physically.  She will turn 93 next month.  Her son Christopher meets us at the station at 11.10am and drives us to the Sunrise home (kind of them not to name it Sunset) where Brenda awaits, looking resplendent in her sky blue cashmere twin set and pearls. We have coffee and then go out to the Kings Head pub for lunch.  This is Brenda’s first meal out since she moved seven months ago.  She has been in hospital twice in that time and so today was a special treat for both she and me.

 

She is a darling person with a wicked sense of humour whom I adore and I am thrilled to see her, possibly for the last time.

At 2.30pm, by arrangement, our dear friend David Williams rocks up at the pub with his beautiful dog Roxy and half an hour later we wave Brenda and Christopher off,  not without a very big hug for Brenda.  David has driven all the way from Tenby in the south west of Wales to see us.  He stayed overnight with his oldest friend, Neville, en route and Neville accompanied him to Sevenoaks.   He seems a better conversationalist than Roxy.

We have a lovely 2 hours with David, Roxy and Neville in the pub garden on a glorious sunny day, the warmest we have had since leaving home. David has had a torrid three years, with the death of his father and the demise of his mother and he describes Roxy as his saviour.  He and his sister have recently moved their mother into a nursing home in her home town of Swansea which has freed him up to regain his own life.  Another real treat today to see David.  He and Neville, under the supervision of Roxy, drop us at the train station at 4.30pm for our return trip to London.  No rain, but a fairly typical English sky!

IMG_0278

We get back to the hotel by 5.30pm and head off half an hour later for a light dinner,which is all we can afford in London.  I even forego the glass of wine when I read the price – ₤11 for a glass of wine!  An early, and sober, night.

Thursday sees Cherrie feeling unwell again.  She has battled a cold and cough for three weeks now, had a few (previously unreported) sick days in New York and now feels it’s time to see a doctor for fear of a chest infection.  We finally find a medical practice in Victoria Station which will see her as a private patient at 2.30pm and really do not much before that, save for a snack in the local greasy spoon.  We were paying customers!

FullSizeRender (002)

 The doctor is a very nice woman who says that Cherrie’s chest sounds clear but has given her antibiotics to start should she feel worse in the next day or so.  Easier than trying to communicate with a French doctor, since we are uncivilised and uneducated non bilingualists.  At 3pm we set out to the Royal Academy to see the ‘Painting the Modern Garden:  Monet to Matisse’ exhibition.  This is really the only thing we really wanted to do in London in this, our only day here.  But we arrive to find there are no tickets available for the remainder of the exhibition – another two weeks to go!  So we cruise the Burlington Arcade instead and I buy a pair of gold stud earrings!  I am served by a charming young gentleman (‘young’ is anyone who has not yet travelled beyond 50 yrs) who goes by the name of Matthew Wildsmith.  When I ask the origin of his name, and the manner of the smithing, he advises me that his family go back to the 13th century as shoe smiths, and that indeed his grandfather made the first ever slip on shoe, for King George VI.  I am impressed.  St Dunstan, of course, was the first Archbishop of Canterbury so we go back further (he died in 988 but I don’t remember him).  To the best of my knowledge he dealt in other souls, although may well have been a heel.

Another early (and no doubt abstaining) dinner tonight and early departure tomorrow to catch the 8am train to Paris with connection to Chateauroux for the start of our French trip.

More soon. Au Revoir

 

 

 

New York, New York. It’s just great

Our friend Sancha, who is coming to NY in September with her husband John for the first time, asks us what makes New York a great city.  We have been cogitating for a few days and we believe that this is a great city because of its vibrancy and energy.  It is true that it is a city which never sleeps, but there’s so much more to the Big Apple.  It’s a city which is very welcoming, caring and safe.  It’s a city which is more tolerant than any we know in the world.  It’s a true mixing pot of cultures, languages and cuisines.  You can be yourself in New York without fear of judgement, no matter what yourself is.  They are a very polite and caring people, who look after each other.  It is a series of communities which make up one big community.  The East Village, Greenwich, Chelsea, Little Italy, Chinatown, Meatpackers, Midtown etc.  The architecture is great, not all beautiful but a wonderful skyline.  On the subway there are loonies who no one takes any notice of.  A tramp with an enormous shopping trolley, piled literally 6 feet (we’re still imperial here) high with trash (cans and bottles for recycling, clothes, bibs and bobs) and no one turns a hair.

IMG_0265

A lone man will get on a subway and start singing…..the other day he sang On The Sunny Side of the Street….all by himself and very loudly. Not particularly well, but not hideous. He walked around with a cup hoping for some coins whilst singing, and when no one reached into their pockets, he kept singing anyway.  He thanked us all at the next station where he alighted, and no doubt took the next subway to test his luck. A couple may have an argument on the train, but no one takes any notice.  I’m sure they would if it got violent, but this is just everyday stuff lived out in public, and the public tolerates it happily. It’s a densely populated city yet still there are lots of parks and public spaces.  This is a city which cares for its community.  It’s a city rich in cultural and artistic life, and one which encourages a social life for all.  It’s possible to live quite cheaply in New York and yet still have a good lifestyle. Clearly it’s a financial and business capital as well, which contributes to it being a great city, but it has a ‘feel’ like no other to me. I just can’t get enough of it. Cherrie has had enough of it…you can get the girl out of the country but you can’t get the country out of the girl.

So, our last week in New York, week 4, has come to an end.   As I write this we are at the airport to board our flight to London in two hours time.  We got here early and sailed through check in and security, so are now relaxing in the lounge after our action packed week.  The weather has been variable this week.  We have seen some rain, some hot days (18◦C), some cold days (2◦C) and some rain.  But none of it got in our way.

Many of my friends will be flabbergasted, and no doubt appalled, that Cherrie and I have spent 4 weeks in New York and not seen a single Broadway show.  Some of those same friends would have calculated 28 nights and 10 matinee opportunities and seen 38 shows.  We have not seen one.  Had there been something really compelling we would have made the effort but there wasn’t and so we didn’t.  Outrageous, I know.

We’ve had a busy week, doing what locals do.  We have been to the legendary jazz club Birdland on W44th, where we supported the benefit Broadway for Africa, which is a group of theatre workers who use theatre techniques to teach literacy and confidence to African kids.  Amongst the stellar line up was our friend Tony Sheldon, who sang a wonderful ballad written by fellow Australian Matthew Robinson called Madness in the Air, which he sang with such passion and confidence.  He brought the house down.  And the finale was a trio of Tony, Nick Adams and Will Swenson (the original stars of Priscilla Queen of the Desert on Broadway) in the rousing number from that show called We Belong Together.  We sat with Aussie actor/writers Tony Taylor and Amanda Bishop, ate good food and thoroughly immersed ourselves in this historic (well, founded in 1949) venue which has hosted the likes of Charlie Parker, Dizzy Gillespie, Thelonious Monk, Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Gary Cooper, Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra, Joe Louis, Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner, Sammy Davis, Jr. and Sugar Ray Robinson.  And now, Cherrie McDonald

We went to the Iguana Club on West 54th for a night of dancing and dining.  But we avoided the dancing, because the other guests were phenomenal jitterbuggers, jivers and ballroomers.  A treat to listen to the wonderful swing band that is Vince Giordano and the Nighthawks.

Our table, consisting of Susan Lyons, Judy Morris, Brendan O’Connell, Amanda Bishop and Cherrie and myself tapped to the beat all night.  We stayed far longer than planned and danced all the way home at midnight.  See, you can dance in the streets in New York without arrest.

We drank cocktails with Amanda on the top floor of the Standard Hotel on the Highline at Chelsea, with wonderful views down the river, or uptown, depending on which side of the lounge you sit.  We did both of course, but the rain dampened the river view somewhat (if you’ll pardon the pun).

We went to Ellis Island, by ferry from south wharf, on the very southern tip of Manhattan.  The Island was the gateway for over 12 million immigrants to the US from 1892 until 1954.  It’s a really good museum and we learned lots.

 and our photo editor, Cherrie, took this great shot of Liberty and Freedom together (ie the statue and the Freedom Tower, where the World Trade Centre stood).

Liberty and Freedom

We were particularly arty this week with several stops along Museum Mile including visits to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which is overwhelming in its size and can only be visited in short bursts.  A wonderful collection which never fails to inspire, including these horses and dancers by Degas, along with the van Gogh’s which never fail to set my heart alight.

 We felt secure at the Met too, as the boys in blue were keeping guard outside

cops outside met

We went to the brand new Met Breuer (named after the architect Marcel Breuer, pronounced Broy-er) which opened only two weeks ago and houses some of the Met’s modern and contemporary art and exhibitions.  Their first exhibition Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible is a fascinating display of unfinished works by major artists.  The reason for the incompletion is not always known and frankly to our untrained eyes many of them did not look incomplete.  Here are some samples from Warhol, Klimpt and van Gogh

 We popped into the Guggenheim where the building is every bit as beautiful as any artwork inside.

 We visited the Smithsonian Museum of Design which houses many fascinating models and ideas.

Still on Museum Mile is the Neue Galerie (pronounced Noy-er, as in New in German), started by art dealer Serge Sabarsky and philanthropist Ronald Lauder, Estee’s son. Sabarsky and Lauder shared a passionate commitment to Modern German and Austrian art and this gallery is housed in a wonderful old building on 86th and 5th.   Many great Klimpt’s, including the portrait of Adele Bloch Bauer, which was the subject of the Helen Mirren film Woman in Gold.  We were lucky enough to see a Munch exhibition too, including the famous The Scream, which inspired one of Dame Edna’s favourite frocks.

 

 We walked the usual many kilometres this week, as you do in New York and we made a special trip to Bryant Park to give it Ros’ love as instructed

bryant park
And we even let off some steam

DSC02563

 We assumed this was the New York Jockey Club but no, it’s just a restaurant

jockeys

 Sometimes we take the train and we were delighted at this series of small brass and bronze figures at 14th St Station

 We spent some time watching an apparently unassuming young man practice his turns on ice at the Rockefeller Centre

DSC02500

 And delighted in the Spring blooms at the Centre.

DSC02503

 That’s a swimming pool at the other end, god only knows why

 DSC02506

That would be a rock pool wouldn’t it?

A visit to the Top of the Rock never fails to delight in the wonderous views

And where we took our only ever selfie

IMG_0274

More public art in 6 1/2 Avenue, a small walkway between 6th and 7th

6 half ave

 And in Central park

hippo

Beautiful St Patricks Cathedral wedged between modern buildings on 5th Ave

St Pats

 And we’re always taken with the general community feel of New York

 

New York is definitely a city for walking and walk we do.  We also pop into shops, stick our heads into interesting buildings and marvel at the number of tulips and daffodils which have blossomed since our arrival.  We love the many street vendor food vans, all supposedly serving halal hot dogs and pretzels as well as falafels.  And, the nut carts, ‘nuts 4 nuts’ they’re called. And the street vendors selling beanies, scarfs and tacky tee shirts.  They are all friendly and jolly and happy to greet as you walk past, with no intention of purchasing.

It seems that at least 50% of New Yorkers have dogs and they are all walked, on leash, at least twice a day, sometimes 6 at once.  Everyone cleans up after their dogs.  No poo on these pavements.

On a glorious sunny Sunday, with Amanda, we wander around the Dumbo markets and then walk over the Brooklyn Bridge, south to north.

 

This one is for you, John and Quinnie

under manhattan bridge

We caught up for dinner with our friend Ben Cameron who has moved from New York to Minneapolis for work but who flew in to see us. We dined at the Café Luxembourg and had a wonderful night.

With Susan and Jefferson we went to the New York Philharmonic in the lovely David Geffen Hall at the Lincoln Centre and heard Suppe’s Poet and Peasant Overture, Strauss’ Oboe Concerto and Beethoven’s sublime 6th Symphony, the Pastoral.  Just in case you were worried that we might have been starving ourselves, we had dinner prior in the Lincoln Kitchen.  It’s always good to be out and about with Jefferson, who is a mine of information about almost everything and we learned that the Lincoln Centre stands on the site of what were tenement blocks, indeed where West Side Story was filmed.

On Sunday night we were delighted to visit Dizzy’s Club at Columbus Circle with our friend Marsha,  a real treat to catch up with her again.   Dizzy’s is a jazz club with the most fantastic views from its picture window.

Dizzy's

We heard the jazz singer Sutton Tierney and her extraordinary three piece band comprising the ubiquitous piano, bass and drums, but these boys were quite outstanding.  A great evening with really lovely music in a glorious room.

Our month in New York has come to an end and yet not everything is struck off our wish list.  I guess that means another visit…….

Living in New York

From the moment we boarded the train in Philadelphia for our return to New York on Monday evening, Christine coughed.  She coughed all the way home and spent Tuesday and Wednesday in bed.  Cherrie got out and about a bit, wandering around our old stamping ground where we stayed on our last extended holiday in NY, in Chelsea.

 

chelsea2chelsea 1chelsea3

Fortunately, Christine was well enough by Wednesday evening to return to Carnegie Hall to see the great jazz singer Dianne Reeves in concert.  We first became aware of Reeves when she provided the vocals to George Clooney’s film Good Night and Good Luck, and subsequently saw her at the grand old opry house with the Sydney Symphony.  Wow, what a voice and what a superb band at this concert comprising piano, guitar, bass and drums.  Really fine musicians all of them, making really great music.  Reeves is a great raconteur and was very amusing.  She even asked if anyone could get her tickets to the hottest show in town, Hamilton, to please meet her at stage door afterwards!  Made us feel better that we can’t get tickets to the only show we want to see, when we hear that even the lauded stars can’t get them.

Before the concert, we dine at the iconic restaurant The Russian Tea Room.  We have only one course and one glass of wine each, since we hope to eek out our retirement funds for a little time yet.  But, neither of us has been here before and we figured, what the heck.  Great décor and matching history.  It was founded in 1927 by former members of the Russian Imperial Ballet as a meeting place for expatriate Russians.  This is where Madonna worked as a coat check chick before she found fame, or did fame find her?  It’s been used a lot as a film set, most notably for one of Dustin Hoffman’s scenes in Tootsie, as well as Woody Allen’s Manhattan.

If we ever worry about over eating, and our continued walking not countering it, we turn to this blackboard for inspiration.

IMG_0248

We had heard about the cruise that circumnavigates the island of Manhattan and so we find it and take it from Pier 83 on 42nd Street and Riverside Drive.  We cruise down the Hudson River, into the harbour and up the East River, back into the Hudson.  It’s a great perspective on this dense city and its fabulous skyline

 

You will note that the skyline is now dominated by the new Freedom Tower, built on the site of the World Trade Centre Tower One

 

It’s the tallest building in these photos and if you look carefully see air space next to it.  This is where Tower Two stood and that air space will be preserved in memory

 We get up close and personal to Liberty

 

DSC02237.JPG

 we cruise under the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges

DSC02268DSC02273.JPG

Past the power station

Old piers (as opposed to old peers, many of whom are now also old sticks)

DSC02335.JPG 

Buildings of rental apartments, many of which are owned by corporations and are strictly for rental

rentals.JPG

 the United Nations building, with the security council building in the front

UN

 past Gracie Mansion, the home of the NY Mayor,  which is every bit as impressive (from the outside at least) as Kirribilli or Admiralty Houses

Gracie Mansion

And we  even went past  a golf driving range!

Golf driving range

All in all, it was a terrific 2½ hours.

 

We go to the Theater for the New City in the East Village to see Charles Busch’s Cleopatra.  Being two farm girls from Berry, we have never heard of Charles Busch, but he is apparently a terribly famous drag queen of immense talent with a huge following in both the straight and gay communities.  We specifically go to this show because Tony Sheldon, an old friend (and son of Toni Lamond), is in it and we want to see him.  We are surprised how much we enjoy the show.  It’s very funny and very irreverent.  Charles Busch plays Cleopatra (of course) and Sheldon plays Caesar and Lepidus but his piece de resistance is his Calpurnia.  It’s wonderful.  We have coffee with Tony post show (yes folks, coffee only) and get the subway home.  Sheldon is looking wonderful and is very happy in New York, he’s been here 5 years now and says NY is home.

New York’s weather this week is like a yo-yo.  Two (relatively) sizzling days of 23◦C with another two down to 6◦, one with a fierce wind making it even colder.  Plus we’ve had some rain.  Our plans for the walk over the Brooklyn Bridge and the Highline are blown out the window, as it were.

Instead, we head to the new Whitney Museum.  But we inadvertently catch the wrong subway train (as we have done previously, although unreported in this blog for fear of ridicule until we realise that this is a common mistake made even by the most seasoned locals) which has us on the other side of town.  So, we wander through the lower east side, through Little Italy and Chinatown and through Washington Square with its charming gardens

And we visit the Tenement Museum, which we had booked a week ago so popular is it.

Based in an actual tenement building in the lower east side, on Orchard Street, the museum preserves the history of immigration through the personal experiences of the generations of newcomers who settled in, and built lives, in this part of New York over the end of the 19th and the first half of the 20th Century.

 


 It’s  a great experience although the “Museum” word was a bit scary to Christine, as she recognised first hand almost everything in the “museum” kitchen…..soap in little metal cages to whisk in the sink water to wash dishes in, Bay Rum hair oil, Borax, Maxwell House Coffee in screw top tins, Chicory in bottles…… oh the list goes on.  Where did those years go?

A little weary after the museum, we consider a movie and decide to walk a mere 29 blocks to Union Square to see Helen Mirren’s new film Eye in the Sky.  En route, down Lafayette Street, we are diverted to the sidewalk on the other side of the road because of filming on this side.  We note the snow on the pavements, and the cameras and cranes and other filming paraphernalia set up, and we see the two actors being filmed as they stroll down the street, apparently chatting.

 Hang on, who is that?  Is that?  No, it can’t be.

DSC02459

But it is.  Dame Helen Mirren.  Filming right in front of us.  Just as we’re going to see her other film!!  I wanted to tell her of the coincidence, but modesty prevented me.  Only in New York….

Eye in the Sky is a terrific film.  An interesting study in morals, ethics, politics and strategy.  One for you, Tim.

We meet up with our friend Marsha at the Lincoln Centre for lunch.  It’s so lovely catching up with old friends, although we are concerned for Marsha as she looks so tired and drawn.  Her partner is battling the late stages of cancer and things are not looking good.  Marsha has very few opportunities to get out and have any time to herself, so we are grateful for these couple of hours.  Marsha asks if we have been to the Gay Bars.  Christine, as is her want, immediately responds before Cherrie is given the opportunity with “Oh no, that’s not our scene”.  “What do you mean?” asks Marsha “It’s great”.  “No no, nowe don’t do those gay bars” says the deaf one.  “Not gay bars – Zabar’s.  It’s an absolutely wonderful gourmet deli on Broadway which you will adore”.

And we did.

Saturday night brings drinks at Susan and Jefferson’s gorgeous upper west side apartment, near Columbia University, and the lovely surprise guest in Judy Morris.  Judy is one of Australia’s leading actresses, who in recent years has branched out into directing and writing for cinema, very successfully.  She spends much time in the UK working and time in the US visiting family.  Her daughter, brother and sister all live and work here.  We then all go out to S&J’s local for a delightful meal.

Sunday we have brunch at Ronnie’s apartment, which is owned by one of the corporations referred to earlier. Ronnie is on a 12 month lease and subject to rental market increases.  Her apartment has been recently renovated by the landlord and is very comfortable.  Ronnie tells us that some tenants in the building have been there for 40 years or more and are subject to rent control, whereby the rent is fixed until they vacate.  To qualify for rent control a tenant must have been continuously in their apartment since 1 July 1971. Subsequently some of these people are living in almost squalor, as their apartment have not been renovated or restored in any way by the landlord since they moved in.

We then retire ‘home’ for a restful day.  The wind is too fierce to be out and about.

But this week, despite sick time off, we have walked many kilometres, as it is so easy to do in this big, bustling, exciting city. There is so much to see, so many weirdos to observe and sometimes avoid, and never a chance of boredom.

 

 

 

The Art of Philadelphia

Saturday 26 March

We meet up with Brendan, a colleague from the (Sydney) Opera House who has just started a new job with the Australian Consulate General in New York at Public Diplomacy Officer.  We have drinks in his temporary apartment on the upper east side, on the 34th floor with a stunning view uptown.  A couple of drinks and then out to a nearby Italian eatery. We had forgotten the controversy surrounding the appointment of the current Consul General, appointed by new PM Tony Abbott, usurping the appointee Steve Bracks who was due to move his family to New York two weeks later.  A shocking, and cruel, reversal for the Bracks family, whose kids were booked into NY schools and whose Melbourne house had been rented out for 4 years.  Anyway, Brendan’s new boss is……Nick Minchin.  Remember now?

An early night because we have an early train to catch tomorrow.  Philadephia has been on our bucket list for a while now, and this is our opportunity.

Sunday 27 March

We catch the 8am express train to Philly from Penn Station.  An easy 1 ¼ hour ride has us at our hotel near Rittenhouse Square by 10am, and they even have a room ready for us.  We dump our little overnight bag and head straight out on foot to the Philadelphia Museum of Art and their incredible collection.  It’s an imposing building with an internationally renowned collection.  The current exhibition is POP, which we trail through with some ambivalence.  Neither of us is really widely attracted to much of the ‘pop’ art culture, with the exception of the works of Andy Warhol, who is becoming a regular of ours on this trip

DSC02078

We walk around the large permanent collection and see many treasures, including these pieces – some familiar, some not – by van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, Degas, Monet

 

 

and this 13 foot high statue of Diana

Diana

Outside, a curious queue for a photo with Rocky.  Surprisingly, perhaps, you will not see us in this queue.

Rocky queue

 Philly is a very pretty city with lots of public spaces which have interesting features

 

 

Leaving the Museum of Art we walk along Benjamin Franklin Drive to the Rodin Museum.  Who’d have thought it?

The Thinker

This museum houses the greatest collection of sculpture by Auguste Rodin outside of Paris.  Mind blowing stuff

 

Two HandsThe CathedralThe Burghers of Calais

 

As if that isn’t enough art for one day, we overload more on the Barnes Collection.  Albert Barnes was a German medical doctor and pharmacologist who married the daughter of a wealthy Brooklyn family who he met during a 5 year stint working for a chemical company in Philadelphia.  He went on to set up a pharmaceutical manufacturing company and made a fortune, and sold his company just months before the 1929 crash, so become a full time art collector.  This incredible collection is housed in a stunning purpose built modern building

Barnes Bldg

and contains a breathtaking array of works.  Literally hundreds of works from Renoir, Cezanne, Matissse, Picasso, van Gogh and more….many more. No photos allowed so none here. But, suffice to say, we were overcome with art by the end of Sunday.  And so to bed.

Monday 28 March

Today we head to the other end of town, to the Old City where we get a good dose of American political history.  We visit the National Constitution Centre for a really interesting lesson, in exhibition form, of the political process for a would-be president.  There’s much about the US constitution and the declaration of indpendence, which we found interesting, and a terrific room called ‘Signers Hall’ with life size bronze statues of the 42 men who signed the declaration of independence.

Delegates

We could have spent hours here, but time didn’t allow. So we moved on and around this Old City

 

 Walked past the building housing the Liberty Bell, which had a block long queue outside it and we chose not to do queues if we can help it. The Liberty Bell holds great allure to citizens of the US, even though it pre-dates independence by many years.  It is the inscription on the bell which inspires – “Proclaim Liberty Throughout All the Land Unto All the Inhabitants thereof”, a quote from Leviticus.  To add insult, the bell (which was forged in Britain) cracked the first time it was struck! It now hangs in Liberty Hall, crack and all, for everyone (well, not everyone…not us) to draw upon.

It’s a pretty building though

 

We visited the Macy’s Spring Flower Show

 

and departed Philly on the 6.32pm train back to New York.

Needed another day in Philadelphia as there is so much we didn’t see. Ah well, better a little than nothing at all.

 

A Stroll in the Park

Sunday 20 March

We head out of the apartment for our first walk, of this visit, in Central Park.  Before we get more than maybe 10 metres we realise it is too cold for a walk in the park.  The sun shines but that’s a cold breeze ablowin’.  So a quick change to schedule and we take the subway to Columbus, and walk up Central Park South to Lexington.

NY2

Past the horse drawn carriages and the tourists sitting in those carriages with balaclavas, beanies, gloves and huge coats on, pretending to enjoy themselves in this cold, cold wind.  Indeed, we pretend to enjoy ourselves walking against the breeze.  Actually, truth be told, we do so because we can see spring starting to spring in Central Park

Spring springing

Christine is a little concerned that Cherrie is not getting too cold, as this is her first day out since her illness.  But they make ‘em strong in Quirindi and Cherrie insists she’s fine.  We get to Bloomingdales….. just because.  It’s just like we both remember David Jones being when DJ’s was still a classy store.  Floor walkers, gentlemen who will assist you with enquiries, fitted out in sartorial splendour.  Quiet music playing, a genteel feel.  Of course we buy nothing but we spend a happy hour in the store wishing we were several sizes smaller and several stages richer.  We even have lunch in one of the many little in-store cafes.

We then walk past the Plaza, still a wonderous hotel with all the bangs and whistles, and through the classy end of the west side of town and we soak up a bit of the architecture of this wonderful city that never sleeps

 

We catch up for dinner with our dear friend Ronnie, an artist and all round amazing woman with so much energy as to leave us disbelieving of her advanced years

Dinner with Ronnie

We are home before 9pm but Christine has to stay up because the Wollongong based computer maintenance company we engage is booked to hook in remotely to her computer at 9.30pm NY time (12.30pm Monday AEST) to resolve a syncing issue. The calendars are not syncing, resulting in the calendar on her phone being empty, not useful when trying to make appointments if away from the computer (which is most of the time).  This fix takes much longer than anticipated, and in fact by 11.30pm it is still not resolved.  The technician, a seemingly nice fellow called Scott, suggests we leave it until the next day so he can research a fix.  Christine readily agrees, saying to Scott (this ‘conversation’ all takes place on the keyboard) that she is old enough to be his grandmother and it’s past her bedtime.  To her chagrin, he immediately responds saying, verbatim “I know, and I think you are awesome.  You are much more computer literate than anyone else I know of your age”.

Unable to find the virtual slap key to send to him!

Monday 21-Friday 25 March inclusive

Far too much happening for us to keep daily records.  We have had a great week in New York catching up with friends, walking, ticking things off our wish list and having an all-round fun time.  We have gone at a nice pace, and had plenty of down time.

We even found time to change the sheets on the bed

 

Oh, and by the way, a correction with regard to the sofa height.  It is 25cm high, not the previously reported 45cm.   Little wonder the difficulty of Granny getting out of it.

Other joys of the apartment we have discovered is the propensity for the circuit breaker to trip for no apparent reason, although we quickly learned that nothing else can be on when the hair dryer is in use.  But even without the dryer, the breaker sometimes chooses to trip.  That results in a total blackout in the apartment and a trip down to the basement to reset the circuit breaker.  We are so immuned to it by now that we head down to the basement in whatever state of dress we are in.  Cherrie put a pair of tracky pants on the other evening, with her nighty over the top and her puffer jacket.  She might as well have walked in from living in the subway, but no one turned a hair!

One of the things high up on our wish list was to visit the Cloisters, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s outpost for their medieval collection which is housed in a reconstructed French Monastery on 4 acres in Northern Manhattan overlooking the Hudson River.  We visited last time we were here but on that occasion we decided to take the bus so that we could see the suburbs of Manhattan.  Big mistake.  The bus ride took hours and, whilst interesting, resulted in our arriving at The Cloisters just as the doors closed at the end of the day!  So, this time we took the Subway, a 40 minute ride.

What a superb exhibition in a brilliantly designed environment.

 

There’s even a little statue of Shane Warne

DSC01937

We just loved this experience.  One for you, John & Sancha.

Back to the computer for another two hours and finally young Scott found the fix for Granny and all is syncing nicely.

Many walks around midtown reveal an optometrist who can fill Cherrie’s prescription very much cheaper than in Australia and a jeweller who can replicate Christine’s lost pearl drop earring for a very reasonable price.  We visit MOMA (Museum of Modern Art) specifically to see the Degas exhibition, which after paying the admission fee we discover opens next week!  But we do see more Warhol’s, van Gough’s and several Jackson Pollock’s, amongst other treasures.

 

At the Paris Cinema we see a lovely French film called Marguerite, which is based on the story of Florence Foster Jenkins.  Anyone heard of her?  Those of you who have not should have supported CDP more strongly. I produced a play a few years ago called SOUVENIR about FFJ.  A wonderful character and a true story.  Marguerite strays from the truth a bit, but it is full of fabulous performances and poignant moments.  Sooky Cherrie wept.

We catch up with our dear friends Susan Lyons and her husband Jefferson Mays.  Susan is an Australian actress who now lives in NY, of course, with Jefferson who is one of the country’s most admired and lauded stage actors.  He won a Tony, Oliver, Drama Desk and Helpmann Award for his extraordinary performance in I AM MY OWN WIFE and he has just closed a 2 ½ year run starring (above title no less) in A GENTLEMANS GUIDE TO LOVE AND MURDER.  We love Susan and Jeffer and they stay with us at Quamby whenever they are in Australia and we travelled to Italy with them a few years ago.  A joy to see them in their new apartment, which they have bought, on the upper west side near Columbia University.

More Primaries on Tuesday, following the Brussels bombings.  This has bought out record crowds in Arizona and Utah and the election booths stay open for hours longer than they were supposed to.  We fear that these are the hard right voters, mostly those who have not voted before.  But still the GOP is exploring ways to ensure Trump does not get their nomination, despite the fact that he is streets ahead.

On Wednesday night we see Michael Feinstein at Carnegie Hall.  Feinstein is one of the great exponents of the American Songbook, a protégé of George Gershwin and a wonderful performer.  He is joined by special guests, all stars of Broadway, Liz Callaway, Christine Ebersole, Susan Powell and we are even treated to the great John Bucchino for a few numbers on piano.  Bucchino’s songs have been recorded by the likes of Art Garfunkel, Liza Minnelli, Patti LuPone, Kristin Chenoweth, Audra McDonald (must be related to Cherrie) and Barbara Cook.  A wonderful concert which we love, and to be in Carnegie Hall is a treat too.  Afterwards we have a drink on the Roof Top of the Viceroy Hotel, a little known venue with a secret entrance which Cherrie’s optometrist put us on to.  VERY expensive drinks, but a great view.

 

On Thursday we head out early to the NY Botanical Gardens in the Bronx and a lecture by an Italian designer on creating gardens.  Most enjoyable, and then we are treated to a special showing in the library of some of their rare botanic books, some first editions, and wonderful drawings.  Followed, of course, by a walk around the gardens.

 

We take the subway back to Grand Central Station and then walk at a pace for 45 minutes to meet Ronnie at a gallery down in Chelsea (it was further than we thought) where we see an exhibition by a sculptor friend of hers.  A stroll along part of the Highline

HighlineWhat is it

then to the Red Cat Restaurant for possibly the best meal of the trip.

On Friday we wake up to CHERRIE’S BIRTHDAY.

HB

We meet Susan, and Mandy Bishop (another friend) in Central Park and walk right around the Jacqueline Onassis Reservoir.  Oh, what a glorious park this is.

Then that night, we dine at the River Café in Brooklyn, right under the Bridge, in the suburb called DUMBO (down under the Manhattan Brooklyn Overpass).  Cherrie has wanted to eat here since 2007 when we walked over the Brooklyn Bridge and saw this glorious place.  We booked in January, and we got the best table in the house.  Right on the windows, right on the river.  We were joined by Susan and Jefferson and it was a very special night.

 

What a good place to end this blog.  More of our next week next week.

Happy Easter to all. By the way, only Easter Sunday is a public holiday here.  Everything open on Good Friday and Easter Monday!!