Category: 2Cs OverCs

Thursday 23 February 2023

Yesterday when we left Lake Tepako it was 6 degrees. The day prior at Mt Cook it was 30 degrees. Today in Christchurch it’s 8 degrees and very very wet. We had planned to drive to Akaroa today but the weather said no. The gondola was a no no too, not that we would have done it in this weather

So we took the tourist tram instead and did a circuit of the city. This city has been rebuilt in the past 12 years. It was the anniversary of the earthquake yesterday. It was the stone buildings which suffered the most, since stone doesn’t give. The Christchurch Art Gallery, which is steel and glass, was built prior to 2011 and built to withstand earthquakes. And withstand it did. Only one glass pane cracked. The tram driver, and tour commentator (upon whom one can always rely…) told us that the building was built over a void and had a rubber shock absorber right around it, allowing the building to move 600cm in any direction. I wonder if she meant 60cm? Anyway, it’s a wonderful testament to design and construction that it survived so soundly when all around it crumbled.

We spent some time in the beautiful Gallery, which is free entry, but they charge like wounded bulls for the piano outside

The weather cleared a little so tossed the tram aside and wandered on foot. This photo is for you Libby, and Prue

Does she look younger than Brenda?

Construction work everywhere, still, and all the stone buildings are taking longer to rebuild because of a shortage of stone masons. Lots of props on buildings, until those pesky masons work harder.

Good progress being made on the Cathedral

Christchurch is prettier than ever I think. It’s a long time since I was here but the rebuilding has done it justice. And there are wonderful murals all over the place.

The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed that Christchurch is celebrating world pride too

Some are even russian to get their message across

We find a funny little place to eat lunch and browse the drinks menu. Language please….

The rain becomes increasingly heavy. Under other circumstances, my partner would have immediately stepped into her ‘shoptillidrop’ mode, but mercifully we only have hand luggage (did I mention that?) and so she’s hamstrung. Back to the hotel to dry off.

We have become aware that the cyclone and earthquake on the North Island have impacted on the ferries between Picton and Wellington. They are either not running or are rescheduling to a major extent. Plus the swells are 3 – 4 metres. Now I like a couple of swells as much as the next person, but not that much thanks. We were booked on the ferry on Tuesday next, but have just cancelled (refunded) and purchased tickets to fly from Christchurch to Wellington. We’ll keep our plan to drive up to Picton and check out the Marlborough region, but we’ll drive the 4 1/2 hrs back to Christchurch on Tuesday for our flight. Less sea sickness that way. This change doesn’t affect our itinerary at all, just the means of travel.

By 6pm the sun is shining. We venture out, without raincoats and Vera hats, and pass the theatre where I have played previously (well, not me really but I’ve swept the stage there, amongst other things). It was badly damaged in the quake but repairs are now complete

We walk to the charming New Regent Street, built in the 1930s. Each side is a mirror image.

We find a lovely place for dinner and enjoy our meal and the accompanying wine, and chatting to all sorts of people. I have become my mother. She would strike up a conversation with anyone and now I find myself doing it. But that’s how we learn things, like the ferry disasters. One couple is from Napier, which is on the east coast of the North Island and they had to wade through tomatoes and apples for days. Whilst enjoying dinner, the rain came down again and the temperature dropped dramatically. One of our new found friends said “well, you are in Christchurch”. A bit like Melbourne maybe, where one often has four seasons in one day.

Walking back from dinner

weaving our way (not wine related) from the protection of one awning to another, I am amused by this

We’re confident it will be fine tomorrow. We’ve still got the Botanic Gardens and the Gondola to do, and then maybe the 90 minute drive to Akaroa.

Friday 24 February

Lots to do today so we jump out of bed early and peek out the curtains. It’s pissing with rain. Back to bed and the crosswords. Eventually the weather clears so we think we’ll do the Gondola first, then the Gardens and then maybe the drive to the coast. But then we change the order

So, we’ll do the Gardens first. It’s about a 40 minute walk, and about 5 minutes in, the rain returns. But like the troopers we are, we forge on. The Christchurch Botanic Gardens cover a massive 21ha and are amongst the largest in the world. Smaller than Central Park but bigger than London’s Hyde Park. It was a lovely walk, the rain variously clearing and returning. Of course, Cherrie is in her element here, and simply can’t help herself

There’s big trees

Historic trees

Lots and lots of ducks on the lawns

and on the River Avon (named after a tributary of the River Clyde in Scotland, not to be confused with the Bard’s river)

This box was of particular interest to Cherrie, but it won’t fit in her hand luggage

And, as always, lessons to be learned. The stairway to heaven is not always clean

The incessant rain puts paid to any Gondola or coastal drive so there’s nothing more to be done except jog to the nearest eatery. Which happens to be Spanish influenced and is a fabulous menu. Wet coats hung up, we indulge in a nice bottle of Central Otago Pinot

The image on the label is Sam’s grandfather, S.E.D Neill, who was a wine merchant in Otago, taken in 1919. Fitting, we think, that this little restaurant, The Curator’s House, sits opposite where Sam went to school. And Jesus apparently. Christ’s College

Cheers Sam. Lovely wine

We take our time over lunch, waiting for the weather to clear enough to walk back to the hotel. It doesn’t, so we just get wet. We leave Christchurch tomorrow and head north to Picton. Let’s hope we don’t need the windscreen wipers.

Wednesday 22 February 2023

It rained all night. Heavily. We know this because we had to leave the outside door in our hotel room open for air. I think all the other guests did too, as we heard many of them overnight.

It was raining when we got up, and when we left the town of Lake Tekapo

Not much to see, obviously. We had planned to take the scenic route to Christchurch, but the advice we received from reception this morning was to take the main state highway, as we probably wouldn’t see anything scenic from the alternative route, given the weather. But we had an hour or so to make a decision, before the highway forked to give us a choice.

We drove through more gorgeous farming country, forgive the photos please, taken as we were driving as too inclement to get out.

and admired the extraordinary windbreak/fences planted. Perfectly pruned, as if a pair of manicure scissors had been employed. These pine hedges are extremely high and long, so long.

Of course, not everyone is so particular

We move onto the town where our decision must be made. State highway or scenic route to Christchurch

Great name for a town eh? Our friend Geraldine will be chuffed. Especially when she sees these

We stop for coffee whilst we cogitate, and are served by a sweet young thing with the most amazing green eyes. She is Maori, fair skinned and she tells us that the green eyes are exclusive just to her tribe, originally from Stewart Island (from where we had that lovely salmon). We sought her advice which route to take and she was unequivocal – in this weather its the state route. Disappointed, but needs must, whatever that means. What it does mean, though, is that we are forced to take the road to the right when we know that our friend Geraldine would have counselled us to the left.

We see more support for Ukraine, which we might not have done had we gone scenic.

The roadside plantings are truly lovely as we approach Christchurch

and my resident horticulturalist asks me to advise you that the tall grasses are Chionochloa Conspicua, otherwise known as Alpine Tussock. We have admired these grasses throughout our trip and at first had mistaken them for Pampas Grass, but this stuff is actually native and it is really pretty.

We have booked a self contained suite in the centre of Christchurch and found it easily. It’s located in the Heritage Hotel, but privately owned, and we followed the very complicated but clear instructions as to how to find the key and the code and the carpark and the lift and the suite. We did. Opened the door and it looked very nice indeed. Self catering, which we like. Cherrie climbed the stairs to the bedroom and found this

Now, I know this will delight those of you who were disappointed at the lack of disasters so far in this trip. We are, after all, travelling alone and not with our disaster prone travel friends. But, despite our tolerance for most things, this bucket and drip and unmade bed and light menacingly dangling from the ceiling was not acceptable to us today. I logged onto their wifi in the room and found an email from the owners advising us of this ‘disaster’ and that there was a hotel suite waiting for us at no additional cost to us. Disaster averted.

The hotel is located right opposite the Cathedral which sustained so much damage in the earthquake of 2011. It’s still being rebuilt but good progress being made.

It’s still raining heavily, so we don our coats and take a short walk to the markets for a 4pm lunch/dinner. Surprisingly good pasta in a cardboard box with a bamboo fork. See, I told you we are tolerant. A quick trip to the supermarket reveals the continuing high prices in NZ

And back to the ‘suite’ with some basics and no limes.

We see a tram for Ukraine and celebrate the global community

No idea what tomorrow holds. Continuing rain forecast but we shall see. And you’ll have to too.

Monday 20 February 2023

We left Milford Sound, which sits at 14m above sea level, and climb up to the Homer Tunnel, to pass through again. The tunnel sits at 945m. It’s a steep hike up, obviously, a 931m hike up for those of you who don’t have a calculator at hand, and our thoughts were with those cyclists who we encountered riding the wrong way through this narrow and dark one way tunnel on our way in.

Although today the lights are on in the tunnel and there’s not as much water seeping through. Either the bodies have already been removed, or all got out alive.

About 2 hours out of Milford Sound is Te Anu. All travellers going into the Sound are warned to refuel here and purchase provisions, as there is nothing available at the Sound. We had a great coffee and sandwich here on Saturday and stopped again today for a coffee, and the obligatory refuel of course. It was busy and we shared an outdoor table with a charming man who was on a day trip from Queenstown on his motor bike. He just likes to feel the wind in his face and the thrum (I suppose) of the motor under him, from time to time. He had perfect conditions from Queenstown and was looking forward to continuing into Milford Sound. We were able to take some of wind from his sales by revealing that it was pissing with rain in the Sound. He laughed “It usually is” ! Having learned that we had stayed at the Lodge he told us that when his sister took his mother to the Lodge for two days of R&R, it was raining heavily. His sister asked about the possibility of the river rising to flood level and was assured by reception that this has never happened, and absolutely wouldn’t. The couple got to their cabin, and his sister turned the car around and unpacked just the absolutely necessaries. The river came up and Milford Sound flooded. They got the car out and drove the higher ground. The entire population of the day was evacuated to somewhere high and spent the next three days there, and were eventually helicoptered out. I’m not sure what happened to the car. As I think I have previously reported in this annal, we too noticed the river coming up, but nowhere near to the level as to cause us alarm.

We bid our charming coffee friend a fond farewell and continued our way to Wanaka via Queenstown. Everything looks so different when one is travelling in the opposite direction, and it’s all so beautiful. I mean, how much beauty can one take? (Not a question I ask myself often).

We do note a clear support for Ukraine in the countryside

We skirt around Queenstown, and take the slow route through the ski and distillery town of Cardona. We don’t ski or drink (uncharacteristially for some of us) but chew on our home made cheese sandwiches in order to make the five hour journey no longer than six hours, allowing for photo stops.

We are now driving through very different country than that which we have seen before on this trip.

What we have noticed throughout our travels here is that it is a very clean country. All the cities, towns and villages we have been through are pristine, and even the countryside. The Kiwi’s take cleanliness very seriously

We finally arrive at Wanaka, and are immediately taken by the beauty of this town. We check into the Bella Vista Motel, right in the centre of town. Who dreams up the names of these motels? Our bella vista is the back of the shops, and we all know what are at the back of shops don’t we? Bins. But this is just a transit stop, so we throw our bags in (did I mention we only had hand luggage) and head off to the lake. It’s glorious.

Cherrie gets a very warm welcome from an old hand

and the mix of cultures are very relaxed

Clearly this town offers a wonderful lifestyle, with a lakeside beach attracting sun bathers, walkers, swimmers, wind surfers and just those who choose to sit and watch

I suppose every town has its secrets, but why this piece of wood was so very very scared is unaccountable. But it clearly withstood the ordeal like a rock

After a long walk by the lake we stagger back to our bella vista and change for dinner. Of course, nothing has a table available – short staffed and lots of tourists. Not even this one could find a table for us

but we were lucky enough to charm the manager of a lakeside eatery called Trout. She took pity on us and gave us the table reserved for drinkers. Is it that obvious just by looking at me? Anyway, perched on stools as we were, we watched group after group turned away because the cafe was full. We were so lucky to have a stool, and happy because I love trout. But Cod is the only fish on the menu. My fishing friend Garry subsequently reports that trout aren’t eaten in NZ, just caught. Moana, the manager, looked after us brilliantly, clever gal that she is (got big tip). She ensured we were well covered in the wine and food department and reported that eggs were in very short supply in the South Island and that lemons were impossible to find. We had noticed the egg shortage – some breakfast restaurants have even had to take eggs off the menu. I mean, whoda thought it? Lemon shortages are due to the cyclone damage in Hawkes Bay, from where all NZ lemons come apparently. Moana was not sure of the reason for egg shortages but I had read in the no doubt very reliable Otago Daily Times that some years ago the government phased out battery eggs and soon after the two biggest supermarkets in NZ announced they would not be stocking cage eggs any longer. This all happened so quickly that the checken farmers didn’t have time to fully convert to free range and so only about 70% of full supply are available at any time. However, this current shortage is a mystery. At least to me and Moana. And it’s certainly no yolk for the breakfast cafes.

Having paid another exorbitant bill, but great food and wine and excellent service, we returned to our vista for a bella nights sleep. Tomorrow we plan to leave bright and early for Mount Cook.

Tuesday 21 February 2023

It’s about a 3 1/2 hr drive to Mt Cook, climbing and weaving all the way. We stopped at many lookouts, because those views are so gobsmacking that stops have to be made and looks must be out.

At one stage we were forcibly sent into a lookout by this fella

Now, that’s a curious sign surely? Until you see this

And here she is

What an operation. Several support vehicles and all other vehicles off the road so this house get past.

Continuing on, down the hill we see more extraordinary views, and this sign – which took us by surprise

Wallabies? In NZ? Truly?

Onward, there she is. Mt Cook, in all her glory.

And are we excited to see her?

The lake water really is that colour. Amazing. As we approach Mt Cook we see her beauty. A fabulous sunny day.

This is, of course, the highest mountain in NZ and was conquered by Edmund Hillary in 1946. That triumph inspired him to Everest. We had hoped to spend the night here (under cover) but all accommodation was booked out when we tried several months ago. So tonight we are staying at Lake Tepako, but it’s only an hour and half away so we want to spend as much time here as we can. But, actually, surprisingly for us, there’s not much to do here. Unless you’re up for a several hour mountain hike. We’re not. There’s no village of Mt Cook, just a very large and terribly ugly hotel and several cabins. And, of course, the Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre. I’m not sure he would have approved. But the surrounding country is lovely

and we have been advised by the woman at the Information Counter to do the Tasman Glacier walk. An easy 30 minute round trip with just a few steps. Sounds good, we’d love to see a glacier. So we drive to the parking area for that walk, and off we go. A few steps turns out to be 333. I make maybe 50 before piking. Cherrie makes the lot, and takes this photo on the way down. Of the simple steps

Meanwhile I have pulled off the track to see the blue lake. That’s it in her photo above. What’s blue about that lake?

Cherrie says that there is no way I could have made it to the top. A huge climb, and in 30 degree heat. Her face was red and her legs jelly when she got down. But she saw the Tasman Glacier

I was pretty pissed off with myself for not getting further. But then I thought, my hip replacement was only five months ago, my brain surgery eight months before that and my shoulder replacement four months before that. Maybe my body still has some recovering to do? That’s my excuse and I think red wine is good for recovery, don’t you?

Goodbye to Mt Cook, as the clouds come over. Here’s what she looked like as we drove in, and as we pull out

On to Lake Tepako. Mmm, not a patch on Wanaka. The lake is lovely but the town is very ordinary. Our accommodation for the night was the Godley Hotel. Anyway, we pottered around town and smugly thought we’d be smart and book a table for dinner so we wouldn’t be in the unenvious position of those we had witnessed last night, desperately looking for food. Could we get a table anywhere? Nada. But we eventually did get a booking at a saloubrious joint called McKenzies. 6.30pm. So we walked more and saw this

I questioned the three young men in the car, as to how often they see wallaby. “All the time, saw 30 today” So there you are. They were introduced into NZ in the 1800s for hunting and for those who had private zoos. Poor buggers.

A drive around the lake, which meant we had to travel through the extensive caravan park, showed lovely parts of the lake and gorgeous beaches. People were swimming and we wished we were too.

Dinner at McKenzies proved to be much as we thought it would, and so to bed at the ungodley hotel, as it proved to be.

Christchurch tomorrow.

Saturday 18 February 2023

We get away from Queenstown at 9.30am. Last night we cooked fresh salmon from Stewart Island, at the bottom of the south island. Delicious, and even though it was farmed it was far superior to anything we have had at home. Today the traffic is flowing. Every other day, regardless of time, we have encountered significant traffic and lots of jams. We know the drive will take us about 5 hours. As the crow flies, Milford Sound from Queenstown is 70kms. But whilst we might be a couple of birds, crows we ain’t. The road distance is 288kms and it is a spectacular drive. We are forced to stop frequently to look at those extraordinary views

We discover this is deer country (well, nothing is inexpensive in NZ) but this is real deer country

Not sure if he sold on 13 January, but this is serious business and there’s lots of doe in it

This is beautiful farming and grazing country with cattle and sheep, as well as deer. These farmers certainly made hay whilst the sun shone, for there is wrapped silage everywhere. Even some with a nod to World Pride Day

Continuing on, we then stop by Mirror Lakes, which speak for themselves

Although the path needed clearing so we could pass through

Did you know that Kiwi’s burrowed and did not nest? I didn’t

This drive sort of overwhelms with views, and one is in danger of becoming complacent. Except we keep stopping and snapping. Not at each other

The sky looks a bit threatening and we are grateful for the perfect weather we have had so far. If it’s going to rain we wonder what effect that will have on our pre-booked cruise and 3 hour (level) walk of the Milford Track. But being the intrepid travellers we are, with just hand luggage (just bragging), we drive on. Into the tunnel. If it’s good enough for the happy campers, it’s good enough for us

It’s a 1.2km long tunnel but seems much longer. It’s a bit spooky actually, water dripping down, very dark (exacerbated by driver Cherrie wearing sunglasses), and with a steep gradient of 1:10. To add insult to absolutely no injury, there are cyclists riding towards us in this narrow one way tunnel. We have passed cyclists all day in a road race, in both directions. I’m not sure how many of these adventurous tunnel cyclists made it out but perhaps time will tell. This is the Homer Tunnel (obviously the Simpsons came here) through solid rock. It took 19 years to build and before it opened in 1953 there was no road access to Milford Sound. However, we had done extensive research and were confident that we would make it through. And so we did. Now we are slumming it in the Milford Sound Lodge with this view from our chalet window. Life’s tough eh?

A stroll along the river reveals the clearest water possible

and fabulous mossy rocks

Did I mention the views?

But even in Milford Sound, even in luxury, a woman’s work is never done

And for those of you who know me by my childhood nickname, these mountains are just over there

Sunday 19 February

It rained all night, and the wind came up. This is the view from our room this morning

But, onward and upward. Whilst waiting at the wharf to board our cruise of the Sound, replete in raincoats and Vera hats, the mystery was solved

It’s what you tie your boat to. And, of course, that structure on Kelvin Peninsula was on the site of a boat building yard. Gil Appleton wins the most convincing answer (we won’t mention, Gil, that it was the only answer) and you win two things. Congratulations. (Editor’s note: please see REPLY to DINNER WITH SARAH to read the conviction of Gil’s winning entry).

Milford Sound: you’ve seen the postcards. Now, allow me to show you some more

We saw fur seals on the rocks

We saw what appeared to be affluent pirates

We saw squillions of waterfalls, this is just one

Look at the colour of that water? Glorious.

The wind came up and almost everyone on the upper dick was blown over

Following the cruise we are due to undertake the 3 hour walk of the famed Milford Track. Obviously this is a tiny part of the track but we want to conquer it. But the rain conquers us.

By the time we get to the pick up area for the water taxi to take us to the walk it is bucketing down. We forego the temptation to walk and retreat to the room. This is what we have to look forward to

Disappointed to have missed out on the track, but we would have spent the whole time looking at our feet and seeing nothing. Except possibly our feet.

By dinner time the view from outside our room has changed dramatically

More waterfalls, and the river is positively raging

And so we go to dinner, to the only restaurant in ‘town’. There is no town, just the Lodge

Our Vera hats were donned post photo

Milford Sound has been the most wonderful place just to ‘be’. It’s majestic, yet peaceful. And just gorgeous in the rain.

We drive through the rain tomorrow, headed to Mount Cook, with a night in Wanaka en route.

FOOTNOTE (and fancy free)

Oh my goodness. As I sit at the table typing this a kiwi just walked across the oiled dick. And I don’t mean a human one – they’re everywhere – but a real one. I thought it was a duck, until I looked. By the time Cherrie got the camera, it had gone under the dick. I’ve never seen one before (read that any way you like). Size of a duck, pointed beak, amazing sort of pointy, thin feathers. Oh how I wish we had photographed it

EDITORS NOTE

Kiwis are not found in this part of the world. What our correspondent saw was a Weka, a common bush fowl. Easily mistaken by ignorant travellers for a Kiwi. This is a Weka

And this is a Kiwi, you silly old dicks

Friday 17 February 2024

Our last day in Queenstown and we head for Glenorchy today. It’s 45kms north-west-ish of Queenstown and reputed to be a most spectacular drive. It doesn’t disappoint. We make several stops, including at this beach.

And another with a long walk, climb, up. Miraculously, we reach the top. Is this how Hillary felt? I am the oldest person at the lookout. The others my age have either succumbed to the climb and rolled into one of the many disused mine shafts the signs warn us of, or thought better of it and headed to Devonshire tea. But it’s worth it.

I mean, goodness, can one ever tire of this?

On to Glenorchy

and yet more amazing scenes

We met a man in a cap. An unfortunate hatcap. “Great Man” he said. “Inspirational”. “When he gets in we’ll be all good and the rest of the world can look after itself”. I think it was an American accent he had. Or perhaps it was fluent bigot.

Glenorchy is perhaps best known as the landscape in which many films have been shot, including Lord of the Rings. We resisted the temptation to visit Jacksonville, and instead just soaked that scenery up

Milford Sound tomorrow.